FOOD, INC: the politics of food on the big screen

By now you've probably heard about Food, Inc, a new film that's co-directed by Eric Schlosser of Fast Food Nation fame. Filmmaker Robert Kenner offers a highly developed expose-type examination of the food industry, government regulatory agencies such as the USDA and FDA, corporate greed, and unsustainable markets. While none of this will be new to sustainability or green adherents, the new film provides a big public forum for the return of food politics as a social movement that is relevant to people of all socio-economic and cultural viewpoints. Starting in your local grocery aisle and ending on your table, it's the middle that will turn your stomach no matter how much you already know: slaughterhouses and factory farms are undeniably undigestable for a green planet and a healthy population.

The film is a must-see in the genre of An Inconvenient Truth or Bowling for Columbine, and like other message-based non-fiction films (the word "documentary" isn't quite accurate, although the officials at Monsanto, Perdue, and Tyson were unwilling to offer a counter-argument on screen), there are reams of educational and promotional materials designed to help change the larger food system. Still at it, despite personal attacks by corporate spokespeople, Marion Nestle, who is a public policy expert, food industry critic , and scientist-at-large and a strong voice in food advocacy for decades, offers a whole host of film-related resources on her Food Politics website and blog. The book-that-goes-with-the movie is a terrific overview of the problems inherent in the agricultural-food system -- and more importantly, a great tool for action. Consider that an anti-Food, Inc website is already in place, sponsored mainly by meat industry folks attempting to counterspin the film's message. The defensive posture is not surprising: these companies are among the worst violators of farm workers' rights, they engage in countless lawsuits designed to advance business over consumers, and they've allowed some of the worst food safety violations of the last three decades to happen in a supposedly regulated marketplace. It's unfortunate that the current problems with food production are generally presented by vitriolic opponents, especially since the solutions are most likely to come from a middle ground. However, the film does highlight commercial producers (Stonyfield Farms among the strongest) who demonstrate that large-scale production does not have to entail environmentally damaging methods.

Stock up on your local (or home grown) veggies before you head to the theaters, though: as more than one reviewer has pointed out, this film is not for the squeamish. Better yet, find a local group screening such as this "Pack the Theater" Slow Food Sponsored Event in Portland, Oregon, and then eat out at your favorite sustainable restaurant!

Something Fishy in Genoa: Slow Fish 2009

Sometimes trying to achieve sustainability, we have to conserve, reduce, and suspend practices that deplete resources. But sustainability should also be about taking pleasure in the world’s bounty. Taking care of the sea and its resources can also mean an awareness of what bounties are seasonable, abundant, local, and of course, delicious. Leave it to Slow Food to provide the tasting, learning, and viewing opportunities this April 17th – 20th in Genoa, Italy, the site for fourth annual Slow Fish Festival. According to the organization, “Slow Fish 2009 doesn’t want to celebrate a lost world. Instead we want to strongly and clearly emphasize the seriousness of the situation so that no one can claim ignorance.” Workshops at the Genova Fairgrounds include instruction on eating seafood seasonally, such as sea urchins in summer and dolphinfish in winter. Food events include explorations of Italian fish soups, smoked fish and artisanal beer, European oysters, and seaweed delicacies. Meet fisherman from Lira, Slovenia, Cabras, the Oristano Lagoons, and Orbitello. Film screenings include Cry Sea, by Cafi Mohamud and Luca Cusani, which won an honorable mention at last year’s Slow Food on Film festival. Other films include Silent Snow, a short documentary about a village in the Antarctic ; Cooking in the Danger Zone , a BBC program on whale hunting; and classic documentaries from the Cineteca di Bologna archive dealing with the fishing industry in post-war Italy, Street food is a big part of Slow Fish 2009. You can wander the streets around the fairgrounds and sample traditional Italian dishes using local and lesser-known species like palamita (Atlantic bonito), blue whiting or scabbardfish. Other offerings range from pizza, panini, and focaccia to arancini, lampredotto (tripe) and fried olives all’ascolano. While you are wandering you can listen to Trallelero groups, a traditional folk music, and other musical offerings from the Liguria region of Italy. And last but not least, no Slow Food event would be complete without wine tasting, Around 1,000 different wines will be available, including those featured in the Vini d’Italia 2009 wine guide produced by Slow Food and Gambero Rosso.